2019年11月17日星期日

How to use Tech2 program the Central Control Module (CCM)

Chinacardiags found a good way to solve unable to program the Central Control Module (CCM) using Vetronix Tech2.
Here is the solution.
Models: 1994-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/ Concern:
The following process should be used to program a service (replacement) Central Control Module (CCM) on a 1994-1996 Corvette.
It may be found that the option F0 : PROGRAM CCM is not available on the Tech I.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Note: The PCM must be programmed prior to programming the CCM if both have been replaced.

Program PCM

Remove class 2 line from DLC pin position number 2.
Install Tech 2 and request information from the vehicle, download PCM calibration from TIS to the Tech 2 and then upload to the vehicle.
Reinstall class 2 line to the DLC.
Program CCM

Install the Tech 1 with VIM cable adaptor P/N 3000091.
Select programming, model year, 4th digit of the vin, select the module (CCM), Program CCM, select location (North America), enter the rest of the vin, select transmission type, odometer select (miles or kilometers), enter odometer reading, programming is complete.

Note: Tech1 adaptor TA02149 will only work on the 12 pin DLC connectors that are typically found on model year 1993 and prior.

How to Solve OBD2 Port Not Communicating with Tech 2 Scanner

This post collected the problem “OBD2 Port Not Communicating with Vetronix Tech 2 Scanner” from the user and offered the way to deal with. Hope it may help you when you meet the same 

I recently purchased a clone GM Tech2 scanner to access the diagnostics in my 2006 Hummer H2. The scanner is operational and can scan all protocols but can not link to any of them. There are no driveability issues. I performed troubleshooting by doing the following:

  1. Verified that the Power Control Module (PCM) and Data Link Connector (DLC) fuses were okay.
  2. Tested DLC pins 4 (chassis ground) and 5 (PCM ground). The voltage was less than 0.1 which led me to believe low resistance.
  3. Performed a volt reference check on DLC pin 2 (serial data) to determine if it was 5 volts and actual voltage was between 1 and 2.
  4. Tested DLC pins 4 and 16 (battery) and the voltage was 12.58.
  5. Checked the purple, black, black/white and orange wires on the back of the DLC for integrity and did not find any issues with fraying or looseness.

I am not sure what to think, whether the issue is with the PCM or wiring. I am trying to locate a wiring diagram for the PCM and DLC which will give me a better understanding of the wire mapping. I know the PCM has two connectors and I probably should see if there is continuity in the purple wire (Pin 2) and its termination in one or the other connector.
Solution:
"DLC" is the Datalink connector (the connector that pushes into the vehicle) so "DLC-2" is Data Link Connector pin 2.
"D" is the 26-Way D-Type Connector that screws into your Tech2, "D-4" is 26-Way D-Type pin 4.
So if you look at the ends of the cable connectors, the pins are numbered as per my sketch.

So detach your TECH2's cable and check the following:
  1. DLC-2 connects to D-4
  2. DLC-4 connects to both D-8 and D-9
  3. DLC-5 connects to D-2
  4. DLC-16 connects to both D-17 and D-18
These 4 wires are the only important ones, the rest you can ignore, infact DLC-2 to D-4 is the key one, I suspect everything else is OK.

Your TECH2 should have come with a 12V Power Supply that plugs-in just to the right of the 26-Way D-Type, its a standard 12V jack. If you don't have a PSU one from a PC monitor, just check its 12V.

Connect scope probe tip to DLC-2 and ground clip to either DLC-4 or DLC-5, set the scope to DC, 1V/Division and 200uS/Division. If you can set the scope to "free run" or "continuous" just to prove there is activity then set it to "DC Triggered" with a trigger level of around +1V to +2V. On the TECH2 select the function I mentioned before (even if your vehicle doesn't have AS) and you should see a signal the moment you hit the key.

If the signal looks similar to the one I posted, then its safe to assume your TECH2 is working OK.

When you say "The scanner is operational and can scan all protocols but cannot link to any of them" do you get a communications error? If so make sure you have selected the correct "Model Year" not the year the truck was 1st bought e.g. my model year is 2005 but was bought in 2006. I noticed that I get the same issue when the wrong year is selected.

2019年11月11日星期一

How to build a P10 PCM benchtop harness using Tech2/TIS2000

This is the info needed to build a P10 PCM benchtop harness.
Yes, everything works. I bought a USB dongle from http://www.chinacardiags.com/wholesale/tis2000-cd-and-usb-key-for-gm-tech2-gm-and-opel-car-model-706.html , reconfigured TIS2000, and it now works flawlessly.

Here is an incomplete parts list... sorry I made many trips and didn't write down everything as I intended...

For the P10 PCM go to a "You Pull It" junkyard and obtain the Blue and White connectors (with as much pigtail as you can get). Sometimes you can find a used PCM with pigtails. I did find a cheap used P10 PCM to use as a spare/test PCM. The OBDII, radio, and BCM connectors (with pigtails) I also got from a you pull it junkyard. I would also check your local craigslist for private parties parting out GMT360's in their backyard. I was surprised to find several local to me although I got the connectors/pigtails from a "Pull-N-Save". At self serve junkyards, at least the ones I frequent, couldn't care less I was butchering harnesses on cars to get the connectors I needed. I pulled out all the pins/wiring for each connector that was not used... cleans it up a bit. You can also Google "Row52" for a local self serve who is in their network.

I started out with a small plastic project box but wound up with a larger aluminum project box. Aluminum project boxes are much easier to work with for drilling/tapping holes. If I had to do it over again I would have gotten a slightly larger (longer) aluminum project box because the one I wound up with would only effectively allow a 6 position terminal block to be mounted on the bottom. I could have used more positions. I have since added a E40 ECM connector for my 06 SWB TB 5.3L. So, its busy in the box. I should have made the box a little more modular.
I soldered every connection possible... wiring shrink wrap/protection tidies up the rig.
Doing it over again I would not have used an LED for incoming "Battery" power confirmation. My Power Supply does that for me already. It also further clutters the guts of an already tight project box.
Power Supply - (you don't need something this fancy... but these are useful for other projects/bench circcuit troubleshooting)
Circuit Specialists CSI3005SM Power Supply
(obtained cheap banana test leads at Frys to cut up and use to connect to project box)
Project Box - (Frys Electronics)
Philmore 1590C Hammond Diecast Aluminum Allow Boxes 4.7x3.7x2.0
Terminal Block - (Frys Electronics)
Philmore 6-Pole Dual Row terminal Block. I believe these are 10-32 screws so I obtained some #10 terminals for soldering/securing to terminal block. Try to find terminals for 18-22AWG wiring...
Fuse Holder - (2x) - (Frys Electronics)
NTE Panel Mount Fuse Holder for 5 X 20mm Fuses.
Search Amazon for your choice LED power Switch -
"Round Rocker LED Power Switch"
The connector I used to tee out to the BCM and Radio connectors resembles a microphone jack. I forget the model/part numbers but I obtained these from Fry's. Again, doing it over again I would have used a solder cup serial comm D Sub 9 (or 15 - VGA) connector setup for future expansion + a little more robust. I would have also used a D Sub connector on the PCM/ECM connector side.
Wiring - I used bits and pieces from cut GMT360 harnesses and cut up some different color cheap test leads purchased from Frys to keep track of everything.
For drilling the larger holes in the box I used a Harbor Freight Step Drill bit. They come in sets of 2 and 3. Figure what hole size you need and plan accordingly.
Overall, I am very happy with my new benchtop adapter, Tech2 and TIS2000.

Is possible to change idle speed with GM Tech II?

Possible to raise and lower idle speed using a Tech II scanner?
Look here - questions and answers from users and technicians
2003 escalade, found a TSB regarding rough idle, I need to raise and lower the idle by +/- 50 rpm. How do I do this with a Tech 2?
For the 2003, if the tsb refers you to a new calibration you might able to reprogram with tis2000 (depends on the tsb date).
Note that things can't be done with the scan tool alone.
2011 escalade would like to know how to do a VIN reprogram/ relearn for the radio.
For the 2011 you'll need tis2web.
Note that things can't be done with the scan tool alone.
Is it possible to adjust the idle rpm with the Tech II?
You cannot change your idle rpm with the Tech 2. On some vehicles you can raise and lower the rpm by controlling the iac motor, but only for diagnostic purposes.
What do I need to be able to change my idle speed for cold conditions . ECM program adjustment? should be able to control it with cruise control switch correct?2002 GMC duramax 2500HD . (1GTHC23182F202689 - 2002 GMC VIN.)
your vehicle can the ecm reprogrammed for the fast idle increase. your local dealer should be able to help you out.
Which one Tis2000 will support escalade 2009 to reprogram with Tech2?
For 2009 you will need an online subscription.
I'm trying to change the idle speed on a 98 camro m6, ls1, with a big cam for a friend of mine. 
Can anyone enlighten me as to the proper procedure to adjust it with a GM tech 2? He wants it specifically set with the ecm.
You cannot do it with a TECHII. Simple as that. What you want to do is considered editing, and you cannot edit with a TECHII. Period.
Only thing you can do with a TECHII is upload GM specific files, tunes, updates, whatever you want to call them.
Raising of the idle can be done using the bi-di controls in the scanner function, but it does not burn it to the memory.
Drilling a hole in the T-body does you no good, because without raising the idle in the tune, the IAC will just close up more, trying to get the idle back down to the desired speed.
I assume the same is true for changing the rear gear ratio?
You can change gear ratios by changing RPOs. Totally different thing. Thats still not editing. It's changing what the computer thinks the car came with from the factory.
You cannot tell the computer the car has a 4.56. You cannot change the idle.
To correctly change the idle, you need to increase the base idle airflow, as well as the idle speed. You need to purchase a tuner suite. HPtuners or EFIlive.
Is it possible for GM vehicles to get the ecm reprogrammed for the fast idle increase. your local dealer should be able to help you out. How it works?
Connect the Tech 2 and follow the steps below to program the ECM for idle up feature with PTO operation:
Turn on tech 2 and build the vehicle
select "Powertrain" (Or "Vehicle Control Systems" on later models)
select "Special Functions" (or "Module Setup" on later models)
select "PTO Options"
select "Change Options" (soft key at bottom of the screen)
select F1 "PTO Preset Speed Control"
select pto max engine speed set to 2200 - 4400 rpm (not below 2200)
Note: These steps will not allow the engine rpm to exceed the rpm setting, even during normal driving if the PTO switch is on
select stand by speed (base fast idle ) set to 1200 (this setting is initial fast idle)
select PTO set speed - set to 1400 rpm
select PTO resume speed - set 1700 rpm
select PTO max engage speed - set to 1800 rpm (PTO engagement inhibit speed)
select PTO engine shutdown - no
select PTO engage relay - no
select PTO feed back -no
select "Reprogram" (soft key at bottom of screen) "Waiting For Data" displays on screen-once data comes back verify settings remain
key off- until tech 2 "beeps" and screen shows "no communication" (Very important step if missed setting will not store)
key on - verify settings remain on list
operate pto

Tech II kit has everything I need to use on 2009 Vert?

You'll need a Tech II full kit, incl.
1) the Tech II itself,
2) the standard Tech II main cable ("DLC"),
3) the CANdi module,
4) the standard SAE ODB2 adapter,
5) a 32MB PCMCIA card with the GM software. 
Source: http://www.chinacardiags.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scanner-with-32mb-card-and-tis2000-in-carton-package-2934.html
Pretty much every Tech II kit will come with all this stuff. Just make sure it has the CANdi module, and specify the GM software.
There are also a bunch of other adapters you won't need for standalone operation with your Corvette. But those should be included, too.
Most people don't opt for the carrying case because apparently it isn't very good and it considerably increases the shipping cost.
*EDIT: there's also the VCI module that goes inside the Tech II. It's basically part of the Tech II itself and may not be listed separately.
*IMPORTANT: read it before you make a purchase!!!

In detail...
http://blog.chinacardiags.com/tech-2-clone-sp23-b3-sp23-1-sp23-b-sp23-c-confused/

GM Tech II Test Report Analysis

Tech 2 self tests verify that the Tech 2 scan tool is functioning normally. The self tests evaluate all critical areas of
the Tech 2 and display pass or fail messages for each subsystem tested. Self tests isolate user error from
system hardware failures. The self tests should be performed periodically to insure that the Tech 2 is
operating properly.
The Tech 2 must meet the following requirements in order to do a self test:
  • Screen display must be fully readable
  • Keypad must be operational
Begin the Tech 2 self-testing program by following these steps:
  1. Press [ENTER] while viewing the Tech 2 start-up screen (Figure VI-1).
  2. Select F3: Tool Options from the Tech 2 Main Menu (Figure VI-2).
  3. Select F3: Self Test from the Tool Options menu (

PCB DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Test Result Solution
RAM/ROM 0 - Pass
1 - ROM read fail
2 - RAM read fail
3 - RAM write and read do not compare.
Record type of failure.
Cycle Tech 2 power (press [PWR]) and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
RS-485 loopback Pass
Fail - Loopback may not be connected.
Check loopback connection.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
RS-232 loopback Pass
Fail - Loopback may not be connected.
Check loopback connection.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
Keypad Test successful
Keypad failed
Exiting the test before all keys are pressed
results in a failed keypad test
Cycle Tech 2 power and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
PCMCIA (Tests both card slots) Card detected
Card not present
Fail
Check that card is inserted properly.
Cycle Tech 2 power and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
Display controller
(Contrast and characters)
User determines if display is correct If the display shows a noticeable failure during tests,
contact Customer Support
Sound transducer User determines if sound transducer is
working.
If no sound is emitted by repeatedly selecting Automated
Test or Sound On, contact Customer Support.
Real-time clock Time is displayed correctly. Invalid values are displayed for date, year, hour, minute, or second. Reset clock. Cycle Tech 2 power and retest. If time is not retained, contact Customer Support.

VCI MODULE DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Test Result Solution
MUX
(Multiplexer)
MUX A: S5 & S14
pass/fail
MUX B: S1 & S3
pass/fail
If MUX A or B fails, cycle Tech 2 power and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI adapter ID
(performed only during
selectable VCI test)
Recognized adapter
Cannot identify adapter
If adapter fails, use a different adapter to make sure that the VCI correctly identifies the adapters.
Cycle Tech 2 power and retest failed adapter. If adapter
fails second test, contact Customer Support.
VCI ADC
(Analog to digital converter)
Channel A - pass/fail
Channel B - pass/fail
If channel A or channel B fail, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
Cross point Pull up - pass/fail
TPU5, TPU1, and TPU0 - pass/fail (results
from selectable VCI test)
If a failure occurs, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
SIPO
(Serial In Parallel Out)
Pass/fail for each area tested  If a failure occurs, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
DLC
(Data Link Connector)
DLC1 - DLC2
pass/fail count
DLC2 - DLC1
pass/fail count
If a failure occurs, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
CCD
(Chrysler Collision Detection)
CCD - pass/fail
CCD - loopback not connected
Connect loopback and retest if loopback not connected.
If test fails, disregard results. Test is not for GM vehicles
(other than Saab) at this time.
GND FET
(Ground Field Effect
Transistor)
GND FET - pass/fail Check loopback adapter to make sure it is connected,
cycle Tech 2 retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI HBCC
(Hosted Bus Control Chip)
HBCC - pass/fail  If HBCC chip fails, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI DUART
(Dual Universal Asynchronous
Receiver Transmitter)
Channel A - pass/fail
Channel B - pass/fail
If channel A or channel B fail, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI I/O 1 - I/O 16 Test Pass/fail messages will be displayed for
each of the I/O lines (results from selectable
VCI test).
If test fails, was loopback installed?

Once an error has been detected on one of the I/O
lines, you can test the specific line by selecting F3 or F4
tests. If the test fails continuously or intermittently,
contact Customer Support.
VCI loopback Pass/fail message for each I/O loopback test.  For any failure, make sure the loopback is connected.
Use F1: Check ID to verify that the loopback is found.
Cycle Tech 2 and retest. If problem persists, contact
Customer Support
VCI short L & M Open I/O 7 - pass/fail
Open I/O 9 - pass/fail
Hi I/O 7 - pass/fail
Hi I/O 9 - pass/fail
Lo I/O 7 - pass/fail
Lo I/O 9 - pass/fail
For any failure, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI J1708 Internal transceiver - pass/fail
Differential - pass/fail
Differential - pass/fail (results from
selectable VCI test)
For any failure, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI TPU
(Time Processor Unit)
TPU0 - pass/fail
TPU1 - pass/fail
TPU5 - pass/fail
TPU12 & TPU15 - pass/fail (or not tested if
no loopback)
TPU13 & TPU14 - pass/fail (or not tested if
no loopback)
For any failure, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support.
VCI level shifters MUX A 2.5 V Hi - pass/fail
MUX A 2.5 V Lo - pass/fail
MUX A 5.0 V Hi - pass/fail
MUX A 5.0 V Lo - pass/fail (results from
selectable VCI test)
For any failure, cycle Tech 2 and retest.
If problem persists, contact Customer Support

POWER SOURCE: DLC CABLE
Step 1: Does vehicle support power through DLC cable connection
exclusively? (If you are not sure, consult your service manual.)
Yes: go to step 2
No: Use alternate power
Step 2: Using a digital multi-meter (DMM), verify vehicle battery voltage. Is battery fully charged?
Yes: go to step 3
No: Charge battery.
Step 3: Verify connection at vehicle DLC connector for loose or damaged
pin(s).
Did you find a problem?
Yes: Repair connector. (Consult vehicle service manual.)
No: go to step 4
Step 4: 1. Disconnect DLC cable from vehicle.
  1. Power on Tech 2 using alternate power source at DLC cable
power jack connection.
Did your Tech 2 power on?
Yes: Problem with vehicle. (Consult vehicle service manual.)
No: go to step 5
Step 5: Remove DLC cable from Tech 2 and attach alternate power supply at VCI power jack connection located at bottom of Tech 2. Does Tech 2 power on?
Yes: Replace DLC cable.
No: Problem with Tech 2. Contact Customer Support.
POWER SOURCE: CIGARETTE LIGHTER POWER CABLE
Step 1: 1. Unplug cigarette lighter power cable from DLC cable.
  1. Using a digital multi-meter (DMM), verify voltage output at
cigarette lighter power cable power jack.
Do you have battery voltage output?
Yes: go to step 2
No: go to step 3
Step 2: 1. Remove DLC cable from Tech 2.
  1. Plug in cigarette lighter power jack to the VCI power jack
connector located at bottom of Tech 2.
Does the Tech 2 power on?
Yes: Replace DLC cable.
No: Problem with Tech 2. Contact Customer Support.
Step 3: Using a DMM, verify voltage output at battery.
Do you have battery voltage output?
Yes: go to step 4
No: Charge battery.
Step 4: Disconnect cigarette lighter power cable from vehicle and verify
voltage output at vehicle cigarette lighter socket.
Do you have battery voltage output?
Yes: go to step 5
No: Problem with vehicle. Consult vehicle service manual.
Step 5: Check fuse in cigarette lighter power cable (refer to Figure VI-23).
Does fuse need replacing?
Yes: Replace fuse.
No: Replace cigarette lighter power cable.
POWER SOURCE: BATTERY POWER CABLE
Step 1: 1. Unplug battery power cable power jack from DLC cable.
  1. Using a digital multi-meter (DMM), verify voltage output at
battery power cable power jack.
Do you have battery voltage output?
Yes: go to step 2
No: go to step 3
Step 2: 1. Remove DLC cable from Tech 2.
  1. Plug in battery power cable power jack to the VCI power jack
connector located at bottom of Tech 2.
Does the Tech 2 power on?
Yes: Replace DLC cable
No: Problem with Tech 2. Contact Customer Support.
Step 3: Using a DMM, verify voltage output at battery.
Do you have battery voltage output?
Yes: go to step 4
No: Charge battery
Step 4: Check fuse(s) in battery power cable (refer to Figure VI-24).
Does fuse(s) need replacing?
Yes: Replace fuse(s).
No: Replace battery power cable.
POWER SOURCE: NAO OR UNIVERSAL POWER SUPPLY
Step 1: 1. Unplug NAO (or Universal) power supply jack from DLC cable.
  1. Using a digital multi-meter (DMM), verify voltage output at
power jack.
Do you have battery voltage output?
Yes: go to step 2
No: Replace NAO or Universal power supply
Step 2: 1. Remove DLC cable from Tech 2.
  1. Plug in NAO (or Universal) power supply power jack to the VCI
power jack connector located at bottom of Tech 2.
Does the Tech 2 power on?
Yes: Replace DLC cable
No: Problem with Tech 2.
Contact Customer
Support.
TIS2000 CD and USB Key for GM TECH2 GM Car Model:
http://www.chinacardiags.com/wholesale/tis2000-cd-and-usb-key-for-gm-tech2-gm-and-opel-car-model-706.html

Tech 2 can solve climate control system issues in Hummer? YES!

Topic: Tech 2 clone for climate control system issues in Hummer? How to
Problem: Hello Everyone, I am having a problem with my climate control system in my 04 H2. The driver side was stuck on heat and the passenger side would blow ice cold air. I followed the GM reset procedure and now both the driver side and passenger sides are stuck on heat. Should I try anything else before I tear the dash apart and change the blend actuators?
Suggestion:
Try this

Start truck .
Put Ac in auto mode
Turn off engine
Remove battery . Both + and -
Give a day . At least a night
Connect batt
Turn key to on possition. Dont start engine
Give it 3-4 min to relearn .. DONT TOUCH THE AC CONTROLS
turn key to off for not more than 15 sec
Start engine and test Ac
If it doesn't work then you may need to replace the actuator and again follow the steps

But it is weird the two sides went bad at same time . I would look for more info before trying to change them
FYI if the drivers side is the one you're having the issue with, it is one of the easier actuators to replace. It is under the glove box and you can replace it just by removing the plastic underneath the glove box. Now if your passenger side was blowing hot and your drivers was cold, that's when you have to take the whole dash apart
Website:
http://www.chinacardiags.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scannerworks-for-gm-saab-opel-suzuki-isuzu-holden-1011.html This is the TECH II that I purchased.
Result:
Thanks Everyone! I received my Vertronix Tech II- It works great! I was able to re-calibrate the actuators and now the driver's side is working correctly, The scanner tells me that the passenger side actuator is stuck so I guess I will be taking the dash apart.
Test:
I have fully tested it with all systems now and it works great. It told me that I had to replace both of my climate blend door actuators. I was able to tear the dash apart and replace them in 2 hours. Now my AC works again!!!